Mangez Bien: Ventrus, Paris
A reconstructable restaurant with a view and tasty small plates.
I didn’t necessarily know this would be one of the last meals eaten at a restaurant that I could properly taste (thanks “cold” that actually is Covid), but boy am I glad it was: Each small plate that came out of the shipping-container-kitchen at Ventrus was a winner. And it was only the chef’s first day on the job.
The potbellied Ventrus, which means—wait for it!—“belly,” opened up on the Canal de L’Ourcq in October, but its goal isn’t to be there very long. The wooden structure was designed and built with the sole intention of being broken down in just two weeks and relocated to another part of the city—or even a different city entirely—where there’s a wow-worthy view and lack of delicious dining options. No footprint will be left behind, and the rotating chefs will be given carte blanche to create menus in his or her own style.
For our lunch, during which the rare January sunlight shone through the 30-seat structure’s giant windows, chef Marion May was in control of the stove; sending out shareable plates such as perfectly roasted cime di rapa (aka Italian broccolini) drizzled in tahini, stewed chou farci (that’d be stuffed cabbage) whose bouillon we would’ve drunk if it weren’t Covid unfriendly, and an uneven number (why though?!) of crispy butternut squash balls served with spicy mayo. Oh, and a refreshing tuna crudo surrounded by tart grapefruit and beans.
I think my only complaint was that they all came out at once, leaving us stressed over being able to properly savor all the varying flavors in between bites. At least we had the sun’s rays to keep them all warm! In total, the daily menu featured nine options, ranging in price between €9 and €19. We ordered four—plus one dessert—and that felt like the perfect amount for two people.
Atmosphere-wise, Ventrus is quite stylish given its reconstructable nature. Hanging lanterns, dried flower arrangements, and mismatched vintage plates make for a minimalist-meets-quirky vibe. You won’t find any plastic forks or throwaway napkins either. Ventrus prides itself on pursuing a variety of environmental initiatives including water filtration systems and, of course, composting.
While it’s not near any major tourist sites—and a good 10-minute walk from a metro station—that’s kind of the point. With the exception of some churros vendors and a pizza place or two, there aren’t any gastronomic food options in the Parc de la Villette. But even if you’re not coming up this way on purpose (for a romp with nature or a concert at Le Zenith), now you have a reason to—and an excuse to give that potbelly of your own a good deflating aprés with a walk along the quai.
Lunch for two, including wine and dessert, around €82.