Mangez Bien: Montreal
The 8 best things I ate and drank in the French Canadian city.
Maybe you don’t have plans to visit Montreal in the middle of winter. Maybe you do. Or maybe you have your sights set on the cool Canadian city for some time this spring, summer, or fall. I visited last August and it quickly climbed to the top of my I Could Live Here list. Whenever you go—and you really should go—there are soft-serve swirls, deli sandwiches, and smokey cocktails to be had. Here are the 8 best things I ate and drank over my three days there. Plus, a bonus of “must see and dos” to balance out all the caloric intake. Bookmark this and get yourself to Montreal, eh?
1. The ‘Smoke Show’ Cocktail at Atwater Cocktail Club
One of the 50 Best Bars in North America, this semi-hidden spot (connected to the very cool French diner Foiegwa) is located down a somewhat sketchy graffitied alley lit by a single red light above an unmarked door. Arrive pre-dinner (sans reservation) and expect to find first dates getting cozy on the silver metallic banquettes, but come post-dinner (also sans guest list) and it’s a dance party with everybody throwing their hands in the air like they just don’t care. Cocktails are curated as if science projects, with a color-coded bible of a menu to match. I’m partial to flair, so very much enjoyed the “Smoke Show,” a rum, blackberry, lemon, and thyme drink presented in a glass cloche and revealed under a cloud of dry ice.
Neighborhood: Little Burgundy
Address: 512 Atwater Ave
2. The Salami Sandwich at Wilensky’s
This kosher-style diner in the Mile End area dates back to 1932 and serves a trip down memory lane with prices to match. They're known for their grilled beef salami and beef bologna sandwich with mustard on a Kaiser roll (that’s more like an English muffin) pressed flat on the grill. It’s not your average deli sandwich in that you won’t have trouble finishing it or even have leftovers. To me, it was the perfect quick hit of fuel for wandering this historically Jewish, now hipster neighborhood. Pair it with one of their syrup sodas or an egg cream for the full effect. The whole thing shouldn’t cost more than $6—if that. FYI, they’re cash only.
Neighborhood: Mile End
Address: 34 Av. Fairmount O
3. The “Plat du Marché” at Barroco
The flagship restaurant to one of the city’s most popular F&B groups is not to be missed for its market-fresh, seasonal cuisine served in a boho chic atmosphere with wooden beams, low lighting, and antique plates likely found at a brocante. Head chef, the tatted-up ‘Top Chef’ Jeremie Falissard, hails from France but gives off Brooklyn vibes. I hesitate to make your mouth water by describing the “plat du marché” I ate—guineafowl in a buttery “sauce supreme” served with chanterelles and potatoes—because it may not be on the menu when you go. But it’s safe to say whatever Falissard is cooking up it’ll be delicious.
Neighborhood: Old Montreal
Address: 312 Saint-Paul St W