A Tale of Two Cities
Recap time! On swapping apartments (and lifestyles!) in Paris and San Francisco.
If you can believe it, six weeks have come and gone, which means my swap sister/friend/landlord Mira is returning to her apartment in San Francisco tomorrow! I’ll be heading to LA to visit my sister-sister and fam, before coming back to SF for another swap (in a different neighborhood) in mid-May. But since this is where “The Holiday” portion of my SF adventure ends, I thought it’d be fun to do a recap. I sent these Qs to Mira and we answered them separately. From apartment details to dating, dining, and dressing, I hope you’ll find our same-same, but different experiences enlightening.
What do you like/dislike most about SF?
Sara: Proximity to nature! I love that in as quick as 20 minutes you’re in a charming seaside town (hello Sausalito) or the Redwood Forest, or an hour+ further in a vineyard in Napa or staring at seals in Carmel. There are hikes everywhere, and yet it still also feels like a real bustling city with “high streets” in micro-neighborhoods. I love the towering, whimsical Victorian houses and the diverse flora and fauna around them.
Also, while I aim to avoid perpetuating the stereotype that the French are rude, there is a certain level of warmth in America that the French just don’t have. Yet it doesn’t feel over-the-top or disingenuous here. People are just…nice.
As for what I dislike? The cost! I can’t get over how expensive everything is, from a $7.50 bag of chips to an $8 single scoop of ice cream. And then you’re constantly asked to tip, even if it’s just a takeaway coffee. If you forget a tote, it’s 25 cents for a bag at the grocery store versus 10 centimes in Paris.
Mira: It’s hard to isolate what I love most about SF (or Paris, for that matter). I chose both cities because both feel like home, which isn’t something I experience everywhere. I find I am struck with a sense of awe, wonder, and gratitude to simply wander through these enchanting places. I will, however, try to pinpoint a few tangible things! Likes: Morning walks from Fort Mason down along Crissy Field; the view of the Golden Gate Bridge over the Bay under a perfectly blue California sky. Running hills in the Presidio. Access to stunning nature and endless hiking trails (Marin, proximity to Yosemite and the Sierras, Lake Tahoe). Proper Mexican food and decent salads. Dislikes: The cost of rent/real estate and the homelessness crisis.
What do you like/dislike most about Paris?
Sara: I love how easy it is to walk everywhere. One neighborhood seamlessly becomes another and there are very few sketchy bits in between whereas right now in SF, one wrong turn and you’re questioning your life choices. I love how the light hits the Haussmanian buildings at the end of the day, and how many small gardens and parks there are. I love the market culture; going every day rather than a huge weekly shop.
Speaking of huge, portions in France are more manageable. I appreciate getting to try more things because of this—and it still costs less. If I ordered an entrée, two glasses of wine, and dessert, whereas my friend had a main and no wine, it’s easier for me to just pay for what I got because there’s no tax or tip to deal with. People do this all the time in France and it ain’t no thing.
On the other hand, I can’t stand all the paperwork and how difficult it can be to take care of simple tasks like changing a lock, or swapping cell phone providers, or, ahem, getting a visa. It truly is a “‘no’ culture” and that really does a number on one’s psyche.
Mira: The energy of the city; it’s electric and utterly enchanting. Getting lost in the streets, being a flâneur. Admiring the architecture. La vie en terrasse—I wish SF had more of that. The quality of life: proper health care and holidays and a constitutional right to protest that is respected by elected officials rather than silenced. And croissants, bien sûr.